Where to Wine & Dine in Athens, Greece—Plus Recs for the In-between Time
By Kendal Montgomery ·
Athens is entangled in ancient and innovation, a cosmopolitan cradle of Western civilization with much to offer. A perfect city for wandering without a plan, yet here are my recs to make the most of Greece’s capital.
If it’s your first time, prioritize winding around Plaka, sipping in Psiri, and exploring Exarcheia. If not, venture to the local beaches and neighboring coastal towns. Or head to the gates of Nemea, less than a two-hour drive. Greece is so much more than its islands, and Athens is the perfect starting point for experiencing its rich, welcoming culture.
Olga at Tannin My LoveΤΑΝΙΝΗ ΑΓΑΠΗ ΜΟΥ
Naturally, we’ll start with the wine bars. There are many.
My focus is always on low-intervention, so if you’re looking for commercial gloss over solid, respectful sips, this is not for you.
Tanini Agapi Mou
Overall, my hipster heart beats hardest for Tanini Agapi Mou, Tannin My Love.
Where Bohemia meets alternative in the neighborhood of Exarcheia, look for the cute corner of Ippokratous and Methonis Streets; you’ll find a colorful open-air wine bar that bustles with relaxation in the early evening and pops with personality at night. It’s a vibrant vibe of mainly locals who come to hang with a menu of more than 100 by-the-glass sips. Prices are fair, the snacks match.
The corner of Ippokratous and Methonis Streets in Athens, Greece.
Have fun with the ruler, yet trust their staff to know exactly what to suggest when you share what you’re looking to experience. They’ll pour a few options before charging for your final choice. It leans heavily on the natty side, but in Greece, with 100 wines at your fingertips, I guarantee they have something you’d like.
Heteroclito comes at it with love, for the love of wine.
Heteroclito Cave & Bar à Vin in Athens, Greece
Oinocent comes in more with “we know, and you know, so let’s have a good time.”
Oinoscent Wine Bar in Athens, Greece
Heteroclito Cave & Bar à Vin has style and personality with a stellar wine list and snacks to back it up. Located in the historic center of Athens, it’s the perfect spot for taking a break from all the old stuff. With more than 200 labels on the list and 20 ever-changing by-the-glass options, Heteroclito is all about exploration and education. So go sit along their gorgeous green marble bar, get some olives, and go live!
Oinocent is the OG of wine bars in the city of reason, the leader of the pack since 2008.
The first modern wine bar in Athens is a sleek spot that slings around 700 labels, both Greek and international; their kitchen creates constant tension around the most prized question: Who came first, the chicken or the egg? The menu allows you to play around, from wine-centric to food-focused pairings.
The next one is a hidden gem, thanks to the local fellow οινόφιλος (pronounced ee-NO-fee-los, wine lover) I met at the wine bar before ditching it with him for the underground. At 8 pm-ish, take a worthy bottle** in a bucket full of ice, and head to the Varvakios Central Municipal Market. Wander through the labyrinth of iron and glass that is Europe’s largest fresh fish market to find a few vendors still open, a sort of speakeasy scene recovering from the chaos of receiving five to ten tons of seafood daily. Yet, they’re ready to go, ready with that show of hospitality and flavor that makes you grateful for Greeks. Probably won’t be dinner, but it’s a great, fresh start to a full-blown night out in Athens.
You wouldn’t know Pyscheexisted unless you knew it did. Tucked away in a courtyard close to the shopping mecca of Ermou Street, this polished wine bar & bistro offers around 500 labels, of which half are dedicated to low-intervention sips. Their scallops were to die for, and the Hoof & Lur Moschofilero will always have a grip on my heart. Skin contact never felt so good.
PSYCHE WINE BAR Scallops
La Cigale
If you’re in the Pangrati neighborhood, you could pop into La Cigale for a coffee and French pastries during the day, or have a bistro-style night paired with their international wine list. I had a lovely southern France Syrah, but as I was with their inner circle well after midnight, there were a lot of unlisted Greek pours where I took hard-to-follow tasting notes.
Athens knows how to have a really good time…
The Acropolis
I’d be remiss not to mention the rocks across from the Acropolis as an option, sitting in front of the Parthenon while the spectacular metropolis shines below. Maybe take an after-dinner shot at being one of those who enjoys Retsina, though you’ll likely revert to the bottle left over from dinner. As I always remind readers, Europe in general is super lax and will always let you take the rest of the bottle with you. I hear the sunset there is marvelous. Just be cool and respectful with your bottle; you shouldn’t have any issues.
Warehouse CO2
Warehouse CO2 is cute if you’re nearby and need a refresher; their cold bubbly by-the-glass game is strong. There are three across Athens; I’ve been to and approve of the Syntagma / Plaka border location, though I’d bet they’re all great.
No matter where you go in Athens, you have a solid chance of finding something delicious. As always, making friends with a local is your best bet for the hidden gems, for those hole-in-the-wall spots serving small plates on plastic tables surrounded by old men shooting the shit on a Sunday afternoon. Antonis and I eventually lost contact, so I can’t ask now where we were, but again, wandering and making friends will take you far in Greece. Just be cool. Be curious. Drink a ton of Freddo Cappuccino.
Marinate in the flavors of experience.
And when you need to walk it off, I highly recommend strolling through the National Garden, a green haven in the heart of the city. Plus, it’s free!
Now, to eat, I recommend some research. I’m usually more go-with-the-flow, but my few meals as a wanderer, compared with local guidance or fellow travelers’ tips, are no contest. Athens has a lot; here are a few I’d go to again:
First, for the view, and then stay for the food: Dionysos Zonar’s. Hugging the outskirts of the Acropolis with an uninterrupted view, this upscale lookout is for your splurge meal. If they have the Shrimp Carpaccio, you must, and the Lobster Pasta paired with Lantides Sauvignon Blanc matches the energy vibrating off ancient history in all the right ways.
Elaia is a breath of fresh air atop Plaka’s touristic lures, though it’ll likely be packed too. Transformed from a historic mansion to a praised restaurant with traditional cuisine, it’s rooftop terrace provides a beautiful 360-degree view of Athens, particularly pretty at night. The meat platter with some dips and salads plus those sweet deep-fried balls of cinnamon-dusted dough is the way to go. Lantides Nemea will tie it all together.
Next was a slight curve toward the Middle East, using fresh Greek ingredients in authentic Pakistani style. Pak Tak Tak is phenomenal! And, little-known fact, BYOB-friendly!!! The curries and salads here burst with flavor; the fresh, fluffy bread delights. Scottish captain of curry, Hector Curry-Heute, lays it out best in his extensive blog that breaks down the menu and, quite frankly, makes me salivate.
While Athens proper doesn’t have any stunners, there are plenty of beaches with clear Aegean waters that satisfy the need to see the sea. I spent a lovely afternoon at Kalamaki Beach, alternating between dips and sips at the Bolivar Beach Club. Even if it’s not swimming weather when you go, I highly recommend wandering along the coastal walkway in Palaio Faliro.
Kalamaki Beach
Of course, this is just a starting point. Email me for any questions or more deets!
The Earth is An Island Nose: Spiced like a potpourri with dried cranberries. A Persian rug with cherry jam sprinkled with multi-colored dried flowers.
Mouth: Fig, dried flowers, dried black fruit dominant with a bit of white plum. White plum in the by waving their freak flag high. Roasted, jammy, green bell pepper and cooked beets.
Pull up a chair